The air remains smoky today in NJ thanks
to the vast forest fires in Quebec. It has a very woodsy aroma, and so is not
unpleasant but for its density. In fact, it is triggering a desire to fire up
my own barbecue grill. Maybe I’ll wait for a day with better air quality
outside, but a few home-grilled burgers would be mighty tasty. I prefer using
charcoal for the smoky flavor. There are some localities (not mine fortunately)
with ordinances against charcoal, but not for being a fossil fuel, which
charcoal is not. Burning wood and wood products is regarded as carbon-neutral since
wood grows back thereby reabsorbing the carbon. Arguably it is superior to
letting wood rot naturally, since that produces more methane, which is less
desirable than CO2. The reason for restrictions is smoke. Yet, without smoke it’s
not really barbecue – grilling, maybe, but not barbecue. Smoke is an essential
ingredient. My neighbors are far enough away in any case for us to not notice any
smoke from each other’s grill.
Grills and barbecues are prehistoric.
Braziers, fire pits, and purpose-built outside fireplaces were the most common
tools for the task. They are mentioned in some of the earliest writing. We have
Egyptian and Sumerian barbecue recipes dating back 6000 years. Slow-roasted
smoked pork in China dates back similarly and remains popular today. The word
barbecue comes from 16th century American Spanish barbacoa which meant a framework of
raised sticks – which is to say a grill. This in turn came from Arawak (Haitian)
barbakoa; the West Indians used these
grills over hot charcoal to smoke meat, i.e. barbecue.
The whole process became much simpler and
more popular only a century ago, however. In the early 1920s Ford motor cars
still had a lot of wooden parts including the wheels. Consequently, there was a
lot of scrap wood left over from manufacturing. Not a fan of waste, Henry Ford
readily backed the idea of his relative E.G. Kingsford to turn the scrap into
charcoal briquettes and sell them at Ford dealerships. The briquettes caught on
and soon were sold by various stores. To this day Kingsford has 80% of the US
charcoal briquette market. Grills continued to be a mix of braziers, ad hoc
constructions, or outside brick fireplaces however. These have never
disappeared and have been supplemented by high-end smokers. But the classic
easy-to-use portable backyard grill came along in the 1950s.
Johnny Horton – Smokey Joe’s Barbecue
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